Saturday, 18 April 2020

SANGANERI PRINTING PROCESS

The beautiful conception of the Sanganeri dates back to 16th century Rajasthan. These prints were first found and produced in the town of Sanganer, hence the name. This is an hand block printing technique which was traditionally been carried on by the Chippas,an artisan community of Rajasthan. These prints were initially done on pure cotton, but with the passage of time, silk fabric is also used for it. Traditionally Sanganeri block printing was done with natural dyes because natural dyes are Eco- Friendly but due to increasing demand and competition Sanganeri workers starts to use chemical dyes.
SANGANERI PRINTING

Now lets begin with Sanganeri block printing process.

1. VISUALIZATION OF THEME

The first and the foremost step is designing. Sanganeri prints add an edge to the garment and make it unique. Unlike Phulkari and Chamba Rumal, Sanganeri prints takes inspiration from nature. Leaves Flowers ( Rose, Lotus, Sunflowers), Tress, Fruits (Mango, Grapes) etc. are some common motifs which are used for prints. After visualizing the theme, design is them drawn on drawing book and then trace it on trace paper or directly drawn on trace paper.

DRAWING DESIGN
2. BLOCK CARVING
Design is then traced on wooden block with the help of neel, coal or zink. The block-carving artisans make use of tools such as small hammers, chisels and drills to be able to carve elaborate patterns into wooden blocks.
After the carving process, these blocks are dipped in mustard oil for at least one week. This extends the life of a wooden block by preventing from cracking.
BLOCK CARVING
3. PREPARATION OF FABRIC 
Before starting printing fabric is washed to remove all starch. Fabric such as sarees, lehngas, duptas are dyed before printing because dyeing will not be possible after printing. For hand block printing, the craftsman will lay the fabric on a printing table, stretched it across the entire length and hold the fabric in place with tiny pins.
HOLDING FABRIC USING PINS
4. APPLYING DYES 
Different dyes are used for silk and cotton.Rapid fast dyes, vat dye and pigment dyes are cotton dyes. Printing with rapid dyes is a little more complicated as the dyes once mixed for printing have to be used the same day. The block is then dipped in dye and stamped steadily by hand onto the fabric.This requires a certain amount of force, often achieved either by hitting the block by hand or with the aid of a hammer. If the design incorporate multiple colours, then each is applied separately with its own block. 
SANGANERI PRINTING 
5. DRYING 
After printing fabric hang on rope for drying. Fabric is put there for few days till it get dry. 

DRYING FABRIC
6. FINISHING 
Once dried they are sent to be washed with normal water. After being dried they are sent again to the printer. Here, in order to make dyes stronger these clothes are dipped in warm water in a brass oven. 
The red and black colour flourish in this. After this long process cloth is ready.

BRASS OVEN 
DRYING FABRIC 
After this long process cloth is ready. Due to Sanganeri natural technique it has always been considered as Eco- Friendly. Due to this reason the cloth is famous worldwide in countries like Japan, England, France etc. 


   

            

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