INDIAN TRADITIONAL EMBROIDERIES

India has diverse and rich textile tradition in the world. One of the greatest treasure of country is its art & craft and embroidery is one of them. Embroidery in India includes dozens of embroidery styles that vary by region and clothing style. Some of them are as follows.
1. PHULKARI
Phulkari is combination of two words 'Phul' and 'Kari'. Phul means flower and Kari means work. It is also called Gulkari. It is an intricate needle work of Punjab. It is the second most favorite thing after 'Sarsoon Kaa Saag', from this region. Phulkari is normally embroidered on hand spin and natural dyed Khadi cloth. Bright red, yellow, orange, blue, green etc. colors  are used for it. Phulkari is mainly associated with dupatts commonly know as Odhani. Phulkari has an great importance in a girl life. Traditionally considered as bridal outfit, during the marriage ceremony.

PHULKARI

2. KANTHA
Kantha is an Sanskrit word 'Kontha' which literally means Rags. According to legend Kantha embroidery is started by God Buddha and their disciples. They used to collect old clothes and sew them together to make their own clothes. It is elegent embroidery in which whole fabric is covered with beautiful designs in simple running stitch. Motifs like floral, birds, animal and geometrical are used in katha embroidery. Specially West Bengal ladies used this embroidery for making their sarees with layers of old fabric.

KANTHA

3. KASUTI
It was introduced during Chaluky period. Kasuti is the combination of two words Kai and Suti. Kai means hand and Suti means cotton. Kasuti therefore means a process performed by hand using cotton. In Maysor during 17th century 64 arts was prevalent and Kasuti was one of them.
For making of Kasuti workers used general matrial for Kasuti work. Workers use common materials for kasuti work. They use charcoal and pencils for marking and then they choose needles and threads for embroidery. Kasuti is very complex and requires a lot of hard work as we have to count every thread of the fabric to make the right design pattern.

KASUTI

4. KASHIDA
Kashida embroidery is an old and traditional art. It is also known as Kasida. Jammu and Kashmir are Kashida embroidery hub. Motifs are basically inspired from nature like birds, animal, tree, plants, leafs etc. This fine and traditional art has been inherited by the youth of Kashmir from their ancestors. But their ancestors given them just simple shawls gifts. By passing time youth of Kashmir elaborate this art. Present time this art is not restricted till shawls. Infect Kashida is used for making cushion cover, veil, bed cover, carpets etc.

KASHIDA

5. KUTCH
Kutch embroidery is textile traditional craft of Kutch district in Gujrat. The local artisan churn out the most creative and exquisite designs. Kutch embroidery is usually crafted on cotton or silk fabric, embroidery is done with silk or woolen thread using fine stitches to create elaborate patterns. Motifs and designs inspired from romantic, architectural and human motifs, as well as Persian and Mughal art. Deep red, black, indigo, yellow and green colors are used for embroidery. Mirrors, shells and beads are used for it's embellishment.

KUTCH

6. CHIKANKARI
Chickankari of Uttar Pradesh originated in Lucknow. The embroidery was practiced in Bengal and Dacca. It was introduced by Nur Jahan, the wife of Jahangir. Chickankari word is derived from French word 'Chakin or Chickeen' which means fabric prepared with needle work. Chikankari work is also called white embroidery. It involves the use of white thread on white muslin (tanzeb), fine cotton (mulmul), silk, organaza etc. back stitch, chain stitch, herring bone stitch are some basic stitches which are used for Chikankari. Beside these more than 38 different stitches are used for Chikankari. Chikankari work reflects a purity that is dainty and delicate. Sari borders, blouse, kurtis and caps are all embroidered in Chikan.

CHIKANKARI

SANGANERI PRINTING PROCESS

The beautiful conception of the Sanganeri dates back to 16th century Rajasthan. These prints were first found and produced in the town of Sanganer, hence the name. This is an hand block printing technique which was traditionally been carried on by the Chippas,an artisan community of Rajasthan. These prints were initially done on pure cotton, but with the passage of time, silk fabric is also used for it. Traditionally Sanganeri block printing was done with natural dyes because natural dyes are Eco- Friendly but due to increasing demand and competition Sanganeri workers starts to use chemical dyes.

SANGANERI PRINTING

Now lets begin with Sanganeri block printing process.

1. VISUALIZATION OF THEME

The first and the foremost step is designing. Sanganeri prints add an edge to the garment and make it unique. Unlike Phulkari and Chamba Rumal, Sanganeri prints takes inspiration from nature. Leaves Flowers ( Rose, Lotus, Sunflowers), Tress, Fruits (Mango, Grapes) etc. are some common motifs which are used for prints. After visualizing the theme, design is them drawn on drawing book and then trace it on trace paper or directly drawn on trace paper.

DRAWING DESIGN

2. BLOCK CARVING
Design is then traced on wooden block with the help of neel, coal or zink. The block-carving artisans make use of tools such as small hammers, chisels and drills to be able to carve elaborate patterns into wooden blocks.
After the carving process, these blocks are dipped in mustard oil for at least one week. This extends the life of a wooden block by preventing from cracking.

BLOCK CARVING

3. PREPARATION OF FABRIC 

Before starting printing fabric is washed to remove all starch. Fabric such as sarees, lehngas, duptas are dyed before printing because dyeing will not be possible after printing. For hand block printing, the craftsman will lay the fabric on a printing table, stretched it across the entire length and hold the fabric in place with tiny pins.

HOLDING FABRIC USING PINS

4. APPLYING DYES 

Different dyes are used for silk and cotton.Rapid fast dyes, vat dye and pigment dyes are cotton dyes. Printing with rapid dyes is a little more complicated as the dyes once mixed for printing have to be used the same day. The block is then dipped in dye and stamped steadily by hand onto the fabric.This requires a certain amount of force, often achieved either by hitting the block by hand or with the aid of a hammer. If the design incorporate multiple colours, then each is applied separately with its own block. 

SANGANERI PRINTING 

5. DRYING 
After printing fabric hang on rope for drying. Fabric is put there for few days till it get dry. 

DRYING FABRIC

6. FINISHING 

Once dried they are sent to be washed with normal water. After being dried they are sent again to the printer. Here, in order to make dyes stronger these clothes are dipped in warm water in a brass oven. 

The red and black colour flourish in this. After this long process cloth is ready.

BRASS OVEN 

DRYING FABRIC 

After this long process cloth is ready. Due to Sanganeri natural technique it has always been considered as Eco- Friendly. Due to this reason the cloth is famous worldwide in countries like Japan, England, France etc.